From Sketch to Store: How We Design

It Starts With a Question

Every piece in the Commonware collection begins the same way: not with a sketch, but with a question. What problem does this garment solve? What gap exists in our customers’ wardrobes? What could we make that someone would reach for every single day?

If we cannot answer those questions convincingly, the idea does not move forward. Our design studio has a wall of abandoned concepts that were beautiful in theory but unnecessary in practice. We would rather make ten essential pieces than fifty forgettable ones.

Phase One: Research and Concept

Once a garment earns its place on the development calendar, we begin with research. This looks different depending on the piece, but it typically involves:

• Customer feedback analysis from reviews, returns data, and direct conversations
• Wear testing observations from previous collections
• Material exploration with our sourcing team
• Competitive analysis to understand what exists and what is missing

For our Everyday Chino, the research phase revealed a clear gap: customers wanted a chino that was comfortable enough for all-day wear but structured enough to look sharp. Every option on the market seemed to lean too far in one direction or the other. That insight became our design brief.

Phase Two: Sketching and Flat Development

With the brief established, we move to the drawing board. And yes, we still literally draw. Digital tools come later, but the initial concepts are always done by hand with pencil on paper.

I typically produce 15-20 sketches for a single garment, exploring variations in proportion, detail placement, and silhouette. These are loose and fast, meant to capture ideas rather than finalize them. The team reviews the sketches together, and we narrow down to 3-4 directions worth pursuing.

From there, we develop detailed flat drawings - precise technical illustrations that specify every measurement, seam placement, and construction detail. These flats become the blueprint that our pattern makers and factories work from.

Phase Three: Fabric Development

While the flats are being finalized, our materials team is working in parallel on fabric. This might mean:

• Working with our mills to develop a custom fabric weight or weave
• Testing existing fabrics for durability, hand feel, and washability
• Confirming that all materials meet our sustainability standards and certifications

For the Heavyweight Crew Sweatshirt in our new Organic Cotton Collection, fabric development took nearly six months. We went through eight iterations of the fleece before we found the right balance of weight, softness, and structure.

Phase Four: Prototyping

Once we have both the design and the fabric locked in, we produce our first prototype. This is a single garment made exactly to our specifications, usually in a size Medium, in a neutral color.

The first prototype almost never gets it right. The fit might be slightly off, the fabric might behave differently than expected once it is constructed, or a detail that looked great on paper might not translate in three dimensions.

We typically go through 4-8 prototypes before we reach a version we are satisfied with. Each round involves wearing the garment, washing it, stretching it, and subjecting it to the kind of real-world use our customers will put it through.

Phase Five: Fit Testing

Once the prototype is close, we bring in our fit models for a comprehensive fit session. We test across our full size range, from XS through XXL, to ensure the garment works for every body. This is not a scaled-up version of the Medium. Each size is individually graded with its own proportions and adjustments.

Fit testing sessions can be long and granular. We measure, photograph, discuss, and adjust. A quarter-inch change in the shoulder width can transform how a garment sits. We do not move to production until every size fits the way it should.

Phase Six: Production

With the design finalized and the fit approved, we send our production package to our manufacturing partners. This includes the final technical drawings, fabric specifications, trim details, size grading, and quality standards.

Our factories produce a pre-production sample for final approval before full production begins. We review this sample with the same rigor we applied throughout the development process. Only when it passes inspection does the production run start.

Phase Seven: Quality Control

Every production batch goes through quality control before it ships. We inspect for:

• Fabric consistency and color accuracy
• Stitch quality and construction integrity
• Accurate sizing and measurements
• Correct labeling and packaging

Any garment that does not meet our standards is pulled. Our defect tolerance is less than 2%, which is well below the industry average.

The Timeline

From initial concept to a finished product hanging in our store or arriving at your door, the process typically takes 8-14 months. It is not fast, and it is not meant to be. Good design takes time, and we would rather get it right than get it out quickly.

Every piece you wear from Commonware carries this story. We hope that knowing what went into it makes wearing it feel a little more meaningful.